Price is everything

I've just returned from three weeks in the UK so the current 15 degrees C in Hanoi feels warm. To the Vietnamese this is the depth of winter and everyone is wearing coats, hats, gloves and anything else they can wrap up in.

I've moved house again and now occupy a three floor French Villa in the "French quarter" a euphemism for an area south of Hoan Kiem Lake which is heavily populated with similar properties. I'm in the process of buying stuff to make the house into a home as most of the furnishings and utensils in my last two houses belonged to the landlords or other people.

So it was that I came out of the supermarket with four heavy bags full of shopping. Too much to walk back to the house. I looked round for a taxi there were none. One of the gaggle of Xe Om (motorbike taxi) drivers huddled on the corner spotted me and a gleam came into his eye - here was a chance to make some money.

Inwardly I groaned, if I took this route home the first step would be a vicious battle over the price, in Vietnamese where he would start by asking for a fee equivalent to hiring a limo and I would have to bat him down.

I gave him the address - 12 Truong Han Sieu, "Yes, Yes" he said not looking at me, handing me a helmet and turning to start his bike. This is a common ploy - the driver will wait to tell you the price until you get to the destination and then ask for something exhorbitant. I stood my ground and did not take the helmet. I waited until he looked at me and asked "how much?" He smiled and said "25,000" my response "too expensive - more than a taxi, I'll pay you 5,000". "No No No!" he exclaimed. I turned to walk away "ok ok he said - 10,000".

Now I know that is still too much and more than a Vietnamese would pay but I don't begrudge these guys 40 pence for taking me a kilometre or so. I turned back to him and said OK. He smiled and then turned to the other Xe Om drivers who had been watching with interest. "Where is Truong Han Sieu?" he asked them.

Price is everything.